Ask yourself what your interest and fitness level, your family, work, and community obligations are likely to be. Once that is done, you would have a better idea what you would like to spend (wisely). The best bet is to shop around and look for value, and that can be found in older models that shops want to clear. Department store quality bikes usually come loaded with full suspension and other features (as well as weight) for not a lot of money. These bikes may seem like good value only if you plan to ride infrequently and for short distances. Ultimately, as your interest and discernment grow, and your riding (distances) increases, you will invariably want to upgrade to better and lighter frame and equipment for a more enjoyable and efficient ride.
Commonly, bicycle frames are made from steel, aluminium, carbon fibre, and titanium, in order of cost, (titanium being most expensive). However, material is only one cost factor in frame manufacture. Some other factors that can contribute to the cost in a frame are its construction method, the frame design, the grade of material used, and whether it's mass produced or specialist made.
Titanium and carbon fibre frames are found in most high end and specialist bicycles, although exotic steel and aluminium do feature here. Titanium is very strong and therefore can be made very light. Furthermore it does not corrode. It is, however, very expensive. Carbon fibre is low in weight and can be shaped and "tuned" for strength. However, it is prone to breakage from impact (like some plastic), and it's expensive.
The most famous bicycle component maker in the world is the Japanese company Shimano. Most mass-produced bikes will invariably be fitted with some Shimano parts. Another brand, SRAM/Grip Shift, makes complete off-road drivetrains (gears and such) and brakes, but are well known for their twist-action gear shifters. The hallowed name of bicycle components probably belongs to the Italian company Campagnolo. However, they mostly specialise in road racing components.
Obviously Frame Size, how far away you are going to be leaning towards or in reach of the the handle bars, most bikes have adjustable seats.
Who is the bike for? Think Carefully before you buy!
The makes and models of bikes on this website are known brands such as Salcano and Ammaco who have made and supplied bikes for years, so quality is rest assured.
Buying a bike which is the right size is probably the most important part of choosing your new cycle. But how do you work out what size to get? A good shop should be able to advise you and let you try different sizes, but there are a few guidelines which help:
Choosing A Child's First Two-Wheel Bike
If the bike is for a child, they generally fall into age categories based on the average size of a child of a specific age. There is no hard and fast rule that says that you must buy a bike of a particular size for a child of a specific age. If the child is comfortable and not too stretched on the bike, and they can manage all the controls ie turn the handlebars safely, reach the brake levers and operate them AND touch the floor with the ball of their foot, then there is nothing to prevent you from selecting a bike in a bigger age category.
- 12" Wheel Cycles - Suitable for ages 2½ to 4
- 14" Wheel Cycles - Suitable for ages 3 to 5
- 16" Wheel Cycles - Suitable for ages 5 to 7
- 20" Wheel Cycles - Suitable for ages 7 to 9
- 24" Wheel Cycles - Suitable for ages 9 to 11
- 26"+ Wheel Cycles - Suitable for ages 11+ (These are classed as adult cycles.)
12" & 14" wheels, suitable for average ages 2½ up to 5. Larger and slightly older children should benefit from the 14" wheel bicycles.
When buying 12" & 14" wheel bikes there are many many "pretenders" out there - essentially many of these "bikes" are no more than toys. It is worth looking for bikes which feature ball bearings in the hubs and main cog assembly. Many of these bikes have plastic bushes instead of steel bearings and whilst some manufacturers make a very good job using plastic bushes AND provide a back up of spare parts, many more do not. Without naming names, many of the cartoon and character branded bikes bought from supermarkets and catalogues are the worst offenders. Be cautious and ask of the seller whether you can get spare parts, as the plastic bushes commonly wear out very quickly.
Once a child has learnt to ride without stabilisers (generally about age 5) they will move up to a 16" wheel cycle. These do not normally come fitted with stabilisers but they can be added to virtually all 16" wheel bikes if required.
Choosing The Right Adult Bike Based On Size
Once you get into the realms of 20" wheel bikes and above, you may be offered multiple frame sizes. This has the benefit of being able to fit a younger child onto a bigger wheeled bike if they are confident riders. Although you will find that size options are generally not offered on a particular model, rather that different models have different frame sizes.
It is a very tempting thing to do, but don’t buy a bike which is too big for your child in the hope that they will grow into it. They will, but in the meantime they will be riding a bike which is not easy for them to control, which can be very dangerous. It does not really save money anyway, because if you change bikes more often, the outgrown ones will have a higher resale value.
Once you are into 26" wheel bicycles (road bikes have 700c wheels), then size is only determined by Frame Size. The size of the frame is measured from the top of the frame at the point where the seat post is inserted, down to the centre of the axle carrying the pedal arms (bottom bracket). In the UK and USA this is measured in inches, in Europe it is often in centimetres. Unfortunately some manufacturers measure their models to the centre of the intersection of the top tube and the seat tube, which can throw some of the sizings out a little. If in doubt, ask the shop and they should be able to tell you which way a particular bike is measured - or bring a tape measure!
